Diamond cutters learned a valuable lesson from the inventors of the Princess cut who did not secure a patent and from Henry Grossbard who had exclusive rights to the Radiant shape for twenty years until the patent expired. The last twenty years have seen a myriad of new cuts; modifications of old cuts and composite cuts that have been patented and branded.
- Brilliant Star
- Calla Cut
- Carina Star
- Crown of Light
- J.C. Millennium
- Jubilant Crown
- Jubilee Cut
- Kotlar Cushion
- Lady Heart
- Millennial Sunrise
- Phoenix Cut
- Princessa (Perfect Princess)
- Royal Asscher
- Royal Brilliant
- Star 129
- Ten Commandments
- Third Millennium
HRA Investments Ltd., has branded a multifaceted princess cut diamond brand called Adura. The Adura diamond, displaying a dazzling 85 facets is issued with a Certificate of Brilliance, illustrating the enhanced light return of every Adura diamond. Sun Gems International, will be the exclusive distributor of the Adura Brand that is marketed in Canada. Adura translates from Latin to “light on fire” which fits this diamond to a ‘T’.
William Goldberg Diamond Corporation has re-created a classic diamond cut, the Ashoka, based on the famous diamond of the same name. The original Ashoka diamond, a 41.37carat D flawless named after the Buddhist warrior-emperor Ashoka Maurya, was mined in the Golconda region of southern India. Due to its unique cut and exceptional beauty, it has attained legendary status as it has passed through the hands of countless buyers through the years. The William Goldberg Ashoka is trademarked by William Goldberg Corporation and was patented in 2000.
The Asprey Cut was created by master diamond cutter Gabi Tolkowsky. To achieve this cut, Tolkowsky looked back at historical cuts and was impressed by the cushion cut popularized between the seventeenth and nineteenth centuries. With its soft, not quite square shape, Tolkowsky thought it would provide him with various options for incorporating the Asprey “A” inscription around the edges of the stone. The Asprey Cut, which was at the center of the company’s relaunch of its British luxury lifestyle house, offers a modern interpretation of a traditional design. The Asprey Cut was created to maximize light refraction to brilliant effect. All of the diamonds are cut in Tolkowsky’s studio. There are 61 facets in an Asprey Cut.
Baguillion Cut is the trademarked original cut inspired by the elongated shape of the straight Baguette and the fire and sparkle of the Princess cut. The Baguillion Cut is designed and manufactured independently in Israel by Baguette World. The baguillion is essentially a horizontally shaped baguette diamond with square corners and the faceting of a princess cut. Like baguettes, baguillions are available in squares, rectangles and tapered rectangles. However, unlike baguettes, baguillion diamonds are brilliant cut instead of step cut.
Baroka Creations Inc. branded the Barocut Diamond which is a baguette-like diamond, but has the facets and the depth of a princess cut diamond. The light is reflected from one facet to another and then dispersed through the top of the stone. These patented dazzling stones generate greater brilliance and life due to double the facets normally found in traditional comparable shaped cuts. The Barocut Diamonds actually show 2 hearts (point to point) inside the stone. The Barocut is also available in tapered shapes.
Master diamond cutter, Eugene Biro, designed and branded the Biro88™ in 2004. The Biro88™ has 88 facets designed to maximize light reflection through the round stone’s crown and table. Each of these branded diamonds is laser inscribed with the Biro88™ logo and Biro serial number. The Biro88™ Diamonds come with a diamond grading report from one of the major laboratories, a GemEx® light performance report, and a Biro Certificate of Authenticity.
Mordechai (Moti) Turgeman, inventor of the Brilliant Star Diamond Collection has four patented diamond cuts – Wishing Star, Angel Star, Sun Star, and Hearts & Star – introduced in 2005. All based on “the starlight faceting effect” that utilizes the direction of the light reflecting off of the facets to create unique star patterns that shine through the diamonds. The Wishing Star is a round, 74 faceted diamond with a 6 pointed star at its heart. The Angel Star is a pentagon, 57 faceted diamond with a 5 pointed star in the center. The Sun Star is a 97 faceted round, with an 8 pointed star resembling the sun, and Hearts & Star is a round 81 faceted diamond displaying a 5 pointed star, surrounded by 5 hearts.
The distinctive Calla Cut diamond is branded by Nelson Jewellery and takes its cues from nature. The lines of the cut are supposed to mimic the look of the calla lily flower. It’s close to a marquise cut but with a rounder middle.
Diaco International Corporation had branded the Carina Star Diamond which is a hexagonal brilliant cut with a six pointed start shaped table.
In 2002 Yuval Harary Diamonds created and branded a new deep-cut, square cut diamond, called the Corona. The company holds the design patent and registered trademark for the cut. The Corona, which the company says exhibits exceptional brilliance and beauty, has 65 facets: 40 on the pavilion and 25 on the crown.
Crisscut™ diamond shape is the creation of Christopher Slowinski, the owner of Christopher Designs. The company holds the design patent and registered trademark for this diamond cut which has some facets which are crisscrossed, and comes in two shapes: rectangular or octagonal. Triangular facets are applied to the steps in the pavilion. The intriguing Crisscut™ has 77 facets compared to a normal emerald cut’s 44 facets.
Branded by Ervin Knoepfler, Diapearls are natural diamonds which have been rounded out in a complicated mechanical procedure. With their excellent stability and resistance to chemical and mechanical attack, Diapearls offer a unique advantage over traditional cultured pearl.
Eighty-Eight™ is a new brand of diamonds by Finesse Diamonds. Eighty-Eight diamonds have 88 facets and an octagonal outline. The brand taps into a Chinese legend begun in – wait for it – 888 A.D. that found Chinese newlyweds during the Tang Dynasty decorating their homes with designs depicting 88, which symbolized happiness and good luck.
K.R. Gems & Diamonds International has branded the Eighternity. Each Eighternity diamond features 24 more facets than the standard round brilliant diamond.Sixteen new facets on the bottom pavilion of the Eighternity reflect more light up into the top of the stone. At the same time, eight new trapezoidal facets on the crown send light dancing through the interior of the diamond, dramatically increasing its light return. Certification number and Eighternity logo are laser inscribed on every stone,
The Elara Cut was developed in Antwerp, Belgium, in partnership with the Diamond High Council and Antwerp University. The cut is patented and the name is trademarked. The cut used to be called the Flanders Cut, after the manufacturer’s name. But in 2001, the company changed its name and the diamond cut’s branded name to Elara.
Branded by Australia Diamonds is a 57 facet trapezoid shaped diamond. Flame Cut is a unique step cut of diamond that has been marketed along with a Flame Collection of jewelry.
The Flanders Ideal Square Cut has the visual outline of a square shape but it has four short sides and four long sides, almost like a square radiant with its four cut corners. The cut was developed in the late 1980s by Belgian diamantaires with the aid of a highly sophisticated computer. The square shape has 61 facets, compared to 58 for a round brilliant. Most Flanders Ideal Square Cut diamonds are cut in this square shape with less than 2 percent cut in a rectangular shape, which has 65 facets. The Flanders Ideal Square Cut has been marketed in the United States since 1999 and the sole distributor in the United States is National Diamond Syndicate.
Suberi Bros., Inc. is the exclusive U.S. distributor of the Gabrielle, a patented cut of Gabi S. Tolkowsky Design. The cut was created by, and named for, the master diamond cutter Gabriel S. “Gabi” Tolkowsky. The Gabrielle diamond stands out for its 105 facets (47 more than the ideal cut which has only 58) which allow for an unparalleled brilliance.
Stelman International Group is the producer of the J.C. Millennium Cut (The 88facet®) diamond that is a 16-sided, 89-faceted stone. The cut features a very unique “up and down” girdle, which gives the cut a flat-sided, as opposed to a round, appearance. The 16 flat “up and down” girdle facets come together at slight points, creating a much different look than the straight girdle of typical round brilliant-cut stones. Another unique aspect of the stone is the break-line in the pavilion, which subdivides the bottom of the pavilion into more facets and gives the stone the appearance of a flower when viewed through the table.
The Jubilant Crown® Diamond was designed and patented by award-winning jewelry designer Edwin B. Cutshall of Virginia in early 2000 who teamed up with Gem International, the exclusive manufacturer, wholesaler and marketer of Jubilant Crown® Diamonds. The beauty of the Jubilant Crown® Diamond comes from its 16 extra facets. Inspired by the “double pavilion” style round diamond cut designed for Queen Victoria’s Jubilee celebration.
The Jubilee Cut is the first visibly square diamond to also display ‘hearts & arrows’ precision and is a branded by Horowitz & Atlass LLC. The 57 facet square brilliant cut diamond is faceted similar to the round brilliant but has a square shape. Jubilee Cut diamonds are inscribed for identification with the name ‘JUBILEE’ and a unique serial number. The Jubilee Cut not cut as ‘deep’ as most princess cuts so weigh about 80% of princess diamonds with comparable size (millimeter length and width).
Introduced in 2003, the branded Kotlar Cushion diamond is based on an antique cushion cut from the 1800s. The modern cut has double the number of facets and they are arranged in a unique pattern to increase brilliance. Kotlar’s cutters added three facets to the traditional 58 facets that all brilliant cut diamonds have. The Kotlar CushionTM is a facet arrangement in which the four main star facets point toward the corners of the stone. The makers like to call this ecstatic brilliance, with no bow-tie effect.
A Half Moon shape, the Lady Cut, with its step-cut pavilion, is designed to give more brilliance than traditional Half Moon cuts. It can be used with other stones in a wide variety of combinations. The Lady Heart, in which two Lady Cut diamonds are set against a Princess, gives a larger appearance than a solitaire heart shape of the same weight.
The patented Leo Diamond is marketed as a truly unique diamond cut but is a modified round diamond. It is designed and handcrafted by the skilled diamond artisans at Leo Schachter, a company that has built its reputation over four generations as one of the world’s leading manufacturers of fine diamonds. The Leo Diamond has a unique modified round cut with 66 facets (a conventional diamond has 58 facets).
The Lily cut has 65 facets compared to the 43 facets of the princess cut and is cut exclusively by Lili Diamonds (originally named Siman-Tov Bros.) located in the center of the Israeli Diamond Exchange in Ramat-Gan, Israel. The still hold the worldwide patent for the Lily Cut that was granted in 1996. This diamond features 4 lobes which resemble a shamrock, clover, or flower.
Ernest Slotar, Inc has branded the square-cut diamond named the Lucere as part of their Cut by Gauge® line of diamonds. The Cut by Gauge® Lucère® is a mixed cut square diamond. The AGS classifies the Lucère® as a “Cut Cornered Square Brilliant” diamond. The Lucère® exhibits a three tiered step cut crown set upon a modified round brilliant Pavilion.
The Millennial Sunrise is a diamond cut created specifically for the new millennium by USA Studs Inc. The Millennial Sunrise design, invented in 1998, is cut in Israel exclusively for USA Studs who have both a U.S. and an international patent on the Millennial Sunrise cut. The Millennial Sunrise is shaped like a traditional oval cut, but features seven tables, which the company calls “windows.” The windows, which have an appearance similar to a straight baguette, allow for greater light return than a traditional brilliant cut. Any way the stone is moved, light will come out from two windows.
Phoenix diamonds are branded by Smolensk Production Corporation Kristall, the largest Russian polished diamond manufacturer. The Phoenix Cut is marketed by I.G.A.T. Diamonds Ltd. and is an oval shaped octagon with 85 or 89 facets. The crown and the pavilion are similar to those of the princess cut.
Developed by Avi Paz Group and marketed by Quadamas, the PrinceCut® is a modified emerald shape diamond and was also awarded U.S. and international patents in a baguette shape diamond. There are a total of 111 facets in the PrinceCut®: 41 are on the crown and 70 are on the pavilion.
EFD Ltd. is today recognized as the largest company in the world specializing in Princess Cuts and has branded the PrincessPlus™. With 101 facets, the PrincessPlus cut returns up to 20% more light than a regular princess cut diamond of similar color and clarity. Every PrincessPlus™ diamond is sold with an individual “Light Return Analysis” certificate, measuring the diamond’s brilliance in terms of “cut” perfection.
The Princette name is a trademark of Mark Silverstein Diamond Import Co., which is its exclusive distributor. Princette™ diamonds are Princess-cut baguette diamonds, meaning they are brilliant-cut. Princette diamonds are cut either as straight baguettes or as tapered baguettes, which form a trapezoidal shape. Traditionally, baguettes have been narrow-rectangular in shape and step cut.
The Quadrillion cut is a registered trademark of Ambar Diamonds Inc. It is an ideal square-shaped diamond with 49 facets and sharp corners. Unlike a round brilliant, the Quadrillion’s lower-pavilion facets widen toward the culet, rather than narrowing; the narrowing on a Quadrillion is toward the corners, creating a star effect in the middle of the diamond. The cut’s brilliant-style faceting minimizes light leakage and allows for a maximum amount of light to be reflected from the pavilion.
The Regent Cut™ diamond shape was born at the Atlass Group in Antwerp, Belgium. A joint venture with Horowitz & Atlass, New York City brings the Regent Cut™ to the U.S. market. The 66-facet Regent Cut™ is based in part on the Regent Diamond, part of the French Crown Jewels that history texts have long declared the world’s most perfectly cut diamond. There are 41 facets on the crown and 25 facets on the pavilion of the Regent Cut™. The Regent has been superceded by the “Queen of Hearts” and now The Jubilee Diamond as being the best of all modified square diamond shapes (all produced by Horowitz & Atlass).
The world-famous diamond cutter, Asscher Diamond Company, established in 1854, patented the Royal Asscher Cut in 2001. It is a version of the hundred year old Asscher Cut. The Royal Asscher Cut diamond is a squarish step-cut style with 74 facets. The Royal Asscher cut has 16 more facets than the classic Asscher or the square cut emerald. Royal Asscher® of America is the exclusive wholesale distributor of the Royal Asscher cut in the U.S. and Canada.
The Royal Brilliant™ diamond, a cut created by Japanese diamantaire Mickey Ishida of EX Royal Co., Inc., is an 82-faceted round brilliant. The Royal Brilliant cut is its own study in the aesthetics of brilliance and scintillation, the concept being that, especially in larger stones, the more facets, the more sparkle. The cut is patented (U.S. Patent #286,387) and the Royal Brilliant name is trademarked. The company holds design copyrights in 11 other countries.
Royalcrest® Diamond is a registered, patented cut of Merit Diamond Corporation. The shape of the cut is rectangular, with a multifaceted, arched table that reflects and refracts light from any angle at the top of the diamond. The step facets on the arched table run across the stone. The number of facets varies for each diamond in order to maximize brilliance.
Branded by Light Masters Diamond Group, the Solasfera is a round brilliant diamond with 91 facets. The Solasfera is cut so that it displays a “hearts and arrows” type of pattern that is named the Sola Star and Sfera Flame optical symmetry pattern.
Designed by M&M Diamond Imports, the SpringCut is a cut-cornered rectangular modified brilliant with 60 facets. The Spring Cut is comprised of elements from both the emerald and radiant cuts. M&M Diamond Imports wanted to create a cut that combined the fire and scintillation of the radiant cut and the elegance of the emerald cut.
The Star one-twenty-nine is a Registered Trademark by Star Diamond Group Inc. USA. In 2003 the diamond world was introduced to a new patented cutting style for the round diamond; named the STAR 129. It has 129 facets rather than the traditional 58 facets on the classic Round Brilliant cut diamond. The Start 129 is only available at about fifty exclusive jewelry stores through out the country.
The Starburst Cut name is a patent of Louis Glick & Co. and U. Doppelt & Co. The Starburst is a modified radiant cut with 88 or more kite- and star-shaped facets. Often there are twice as many facets on a Starburst as on a traditional round cut. The starburst facet pattern is very popular for fancy yellow colored stones because tends to focus color near the top of a stone and makes the color appear more intense. Recently, Louis Glick’s “Blonde Diamonds®” jewelry collection takes yellow diamonds to another level of branding for yellow diamonds.
Trillion Diamond Company has branded diamonds in the shape of the two tablets of the Ten Commandments, with the text of the commandments laser-inscribed on the table facet of the stone. The Ten Commandments Diamond® is a single diamond, hand cut and polished into the shape of the recognizable tablets. The table facet is carefully laser inscribed with the verses of the Ten Commandments. They are available in three versions: Protestant, Catholic and Jewish
Trielle is the brand name that is registered by Trillion Diamond Co., Inc. for a triangular shaped diamond that contains straight sides and a facet approximately 5 to 8 percent away from each point, angled approximately 3 degrees inward to round the tips slightly. Every Trielle diamond is an equilateral triangle that is cut with 50 facets: 41 (including the table and culet) plus nine girdle facets.
Henry Meyer Diamond Company has branded the Trilliant diamond which is cut exclusively with straight sides as an equilateral triangle, slightly pinched at the tips. The finished diamond contains 50 facets. The term “trilliant” is often used as a generic name for triangular modified brilliant diamond shapes since it is not trademarked or patented.
The Tycoon Cut, invented in 1999 by Toros Kejejian, is trademarked, and has been patented in both the United States and internationally. Los Angeles-based Tycoon Jewelry is its sole distributor. The cut is described as a rectangular mixed cut. It has 33 facets nine on the crown and 24 making up the pavilion. The faceting of the crown is what makes the Tycoon Cut unique, as the entire crown can be considered a nine facet table. The top center facet is in the shape of a diamond, making it the only diamond with a diamond on top.
ABA Diamond Corp has branded the Victorian Cut that has a classical octagonal shape, a unique multifaceted top crown and step cut bottom pavilion facets, which contribute to the diamond’s brilliance. There are 73 facets in a Victorian Cut. All Victorian Cut diamonds have GIA certification reports and every stone is laser inscribed with a logo and identification number.